April 18, 2025
Nestled in the heart of Perak, Malaysia, Ipoh is a city that gracefully blends colonial elegance, vibrant street art, delicious local flavors, and a sprinkle of nostalgia. Once a booming tin mining town during the British era, the city's charm lies not just in its grand old buildings, but in the stories behind them — and, of course, in every cup of its signature white coffee.
We arrived in Ipoh from Cameron Highlands, after visiting the picturesque BOH tea plantation. Just in time for check-in at Weil Hotel Ipoh, we settled into our Super King Room. There was no balcony though, the city view made up for it.
We arrived in Ipoh from Cameron Highlands, after visiting the picturesque BOH tea plantation. Just in time for check-in at Weil Hotel Ipoh, we settled into our Super King Room. There was no balcony though, the city view made up for it.
We ordered dinner through room service. As expected, I have ordered my forever fave, nasi lemak. I took a peek at the rooftop infinity pool. Guests were swimming, but I decided to skip for the moment and explore the mall just an elevator ride away — Ipoh Parade Shopping Centre. I headed straight for the supermarket at the basement level, hoping to find some white coffee and tambun biscuits for presents. I was told these stuff could be found at the souvenir shops in the downtown area.
Ipoh is, without a doubt, a food lover’s paradise. The city is the birthplace of white coffee, but it doesn’t stop there — bean sprout chicken (Nga Choi Gai), salt-baked chicken, chee cheong fun, and caramel egg custards are just a few local favorites. A trip to Ipoh isn’t complete without a food hunt through its vintage coffee shops and buzzing night markets.
Ipoh is, without a doubt, a food lover’s paradise. The city is the birthplace of white coffee, but it doesn’t stop there — bean sprout chicken (Nga Choi Gai), salt-baked chicken, chee cheong fun, and caramel egg custards are just a few local favorites. A trip to Ipoh isn’t complete without a food hunt through its vintage coffee shops and buzzing night markets.
The next morning, I started my day with a refreshing 30-minute swim at the rooftop pool, all to myself once again. I wished I had more time but we overslept. Still, we made it just in time for a sumptuous breakfast.
There was a dedicated nasi lemak corner, hot dishes, cereals, pancakes, pastries, juices, and even a side table outside the restaurant serving dim sum and noodles. After breakfast, we packed since we were flying tonight. We checked out, left our bags with the concierge, and walked into town.
I found the brand of the white coffee my friend requested, Chang Jiang. It is cheaper at the airport though.
Tambun biscuits, also called tau sar pneah or affectionately nicknamed "dragon balls," are a cherished traditional pastry that hails from Bukit Tambun in Penang, Malaysia. These small, round delights boast a crisp, golden crust filled with a flavorful mung bean paste that strikes a balance between sweet and savory — often complemented by the aromatic touch of fried shallots for extra depth.
Our goal was simple: find the best white coffee and tambun biscuits in town. First stop: Sin Eng Heong — a bakery famed for its flaky kaya puffs filled with sweet coconut jam. I bought the minimum 5 pieces, plus tambun biscuits and their charcoal biscuit.
Pro tip: the kaya puffs are even better the next day straight from the fridge!
Next, I made my way to Sin Eng Hoe Biscuit at The Octagon. I grabbed more kaya puffs (for comparison), Chang Jiang white coffee, fresh red bean pastries, and several neatly packed boxes of tambun biscuits. To be honest, I couldn’t tell much difference between the two bakeries — both were excellent and satisfied my cravings.
Pro tip: the kaya puffs are even better the next day straight from the fridge!
Next, I made my way to Sin Eng Hoe Biscuit at The Octagon. I grabbed more kaya puffs (for comparison), Chang Jiang white coffee, fresh red bean pastries, and several neatly packed boxes of tambun biscuits. To be honest, I couldn’t tell much difference between the two bakeries — both were excellent and satisfied my cravings.
This lane was once the hideout of mistresses of wealthy Chinese tin miners, lined with brothels, gambling rooms, and opium dens in the early 1900s. Today, it’s a vibrant corridor filled with cafés, souvenir stalls, and heritage shophouses, attracting visitors with its charm and stories.
We returned to the hotel around 12 noon to collect our bags. We wanted to try Ipoh's famous salted egg chicken, but we were still too full from breakfast. So, I set off to explore Old Town on foot while my husband stayed behind in the car park — the afternoon heat wasn’t kind.
Walking along Jalan Bandar Timah, I passed by Market Lane, known for its murals. A family was taking pictures so I decided to come back later. I reached the iconic Concubine Lane, now buzzing with tourists and souvenir shops. It felt like a step into another time.
Right across the lane is the lesser-known path to the Birch Memorial Clock Tower, via a quieter side of Panglima Lane. On the way, I spotted the cheeky mural that read: “Ini Pekan Orang Handsome” (“This is the town of handsome people”) — a fun local inside joke with historic roots.
On my way back, I saw the Arlene House opposite SPH de Silva building, a colonial treasure now turned into a museum. Nearby, a mural sponsored by Grab caught my attention. Finally, I returned to Market Lane and managed to snap that photo I missed earlier.
The bustling street of Jalan Bandar Timah — formerly known as Leech Street — is the birthplace of Ipoh's famous white coffee. You'll find the original OldTown White Coffee outlet, souvenir shops, Wawasan Cendol Abang Kacak, a popular spot for enjoying one of Malaysia’s favorite desserts and more.
As I passed through the extended Concubine Lane, also known as Panglima Lane, on my way to the Birch Memorial Clock Tower, I came across this humorous sign — which translates to "This is the town of handsome people." 😄
Ipoh's Old Town, especially streets like Concubine Lane, Market Lane, and Jalan Market, was once a hotspot for vice during the tin mining boom in the late 1800s and early 1900s. These streets had opium dens, gambling halls, and brothels, fueled by the wealth from tin and Chinese secret societies.
During British rule, opium was legal and taxed. Opium dens were openly licensed, often hidden in shops or medicine halls, where people would smoke in smoky rooms. Some old buildings still show signs of these times.
Gambling was widespread, usually controlled by clan groups. Secret casinos were hidden in backrooms, with protection from gangs and sometimes bribed officials. Turf wars and protection rackets were common.
After World War II and Malaysia's independence, the area gradually changed. The vice industries declined, and many old buildings were repurposed. Today, the area is a vibrant tourist spot filled with cafés, art, and history, but its colorful past still lives on in the architecture and stories.
Built to commemorate British Resident J.W.W. Birch, who was assassinated in 1875, this clock tower stands as a reminder of Ipoh’s colonial past and the conflicts of that era. Its design includes symbolic figures representing Egypt, India, China, and the Western world.
Tucked away in Ipoh’s Old Town, Market Lane (Second Concubine Lane) has undergone a vibrant transformation. Once a quiet back alley, it’s now filled with colorful murals that breathe life into the city’s cultural heritage and charm.
This Neoclassical architectural style builiding was built in 1905 by the last Kapitan China of Perak. It houses the Made In Ipoh Museum which tells the story of Ipoh's mining past and the local community’s rise through the decades.
A traditional Hakka favorite, salted chicken has been perfected over time by the people of Ipoh. It’s usually made with free-range kampung chicken, known for its tender and lean meat. The chicken is seasoned with salt and Chinese herbs—especially dang gui (angelica root) and goji berries—then wrapped in parchment paper and baked. Sometimes, it's even surrounded by coarse salt to lock in moisture and flavor.
The result? A juicy, fragrant dish with a gentle herbal aroma. The herb-infused juices are sealed inside the wrapping, creating a natural, flavorful broth that enhances every bite.
👉 One of the go-to places for this dish is Aun Kheng Lim Salted Chicken, a modest yet hugely popular spot in Ipoh. It’s common to see both locals and visitors queuing up or placing advance orders. Many even bring home vacuum-packed versions as tasty souvenirs. (I haven’t tried it myself yet, though!)
As our time in Ipoh came to an end, we arrived at the airport well ahead of schedule — a full two and a half hours before our flight. The car owner was already there, ready to collect the car without any hassle. The airport itself is quite small and quiet, with limited activity, which added to the feeling of uncertainty.
One thing we hadn’t expected was that passengers are only allowed to proceed to immigration and security clearance about 45 minutes before the flight. That left us lingering in the waiting area, a bit unsure of how the boarding process would unfold. With no clear announcements, I found myself checking repeatedly — nearly every few minutes — just to make sure we wouldn’t miss our cue.
Nevertheless, our time in Ipoh was just what we needed — a relaxing break from our busy lives. We enjoyed tasty local food at the hotel and took peaceful walks through the Old Town, admiring the old buildings and fun street art.
As the plane took off, it was time to return to everyday life and work.
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